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Indonesian fried rice is one of the all-time great comfort foods, but has more variations than Indonesia has islands. So whats the best recipe?

Though there are many worthy contenders for the title, all right-thinking people surely agree that fried rice is the very best kind of rice. And the Indonesian version, nasi goreng, is right up there in the top tier one of the worlds great comfort foods, according to Rick Stein, who developed a taste for it while filming there with a crew who apparently preferred to start the day with a full English. Jakarta-born food writer Pat Tanumihardja explains that its the use of kecap manis (Indonesian soy sauce) and terasi (Indonesian shrimp paste) that sets nasi goreng apart from other fried-rice variations youll see in other countries.

Not that theres just one version of nasi goreng, obviously; a country made up of more than 14,000 islands contains multitudes in this respect as much as any other: theres nasi goreng kambing with mutton, nasi goreng ayam with chicken, and nasi goreng gila, or crazy fried rice, which can apparently contain anything the cook happens to have to hand, from corned beef to sausages. But for those of us without easy access to Indonesias many night markets and street stalls, whats the best way to make it at home?

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